A Basic Guide to Making Beer, Ale, Lager Or Cider From An Ingredient Kit And Which Equipment Set To Choose.


Choosing An Equipment Set


The first thing to consider before you dive into buying an equipment kit to make beer is the question ‘do I want the end result to be fizzy?’ (there is a difference between a beer having a head or light sparkle and being fizzy!)

If you want to make a lager, the end result needs to be fizzy, whereas an ale or some darker beers and stouts just want a little life or sparkle but are not generally considered best-served fizzy or over-carbonated. Cider can be served both ways….fizzy as a lot of modern cider is, or traditional which would be still, you can decide which you prefer!

I recommend an equipment kit with bottles if you want a fizzy / highly carbonated result, or a set with a barrel if you prefer a less lively drink, like real ales or darker beers.

You can use either barrels or bottles for your finished brew, but bear in mind that with bottles you can achieve a much higher pressure, so these are more suited to lagers, lighter beers and sparkling ciders.

Making sure your equipment is clean and sterile is essential for all homebrewing. so bear in mind that sterilising and rinsing 40 bottles is more time-consuming than just one barrel.

Also think about what space you have, bottles are easy to fit in a fridge a few at a time, but a barrel is harder to keep cold. Do you have a garage or outside space where a barrel could be stored to keep it cool? You don't want your beer served too warm. 


Equipment Sets
Minimum: Balliihoo Basic Homebrew Starter Equipment Kit consisting of:

  • Fermentation Bucket with temperature indicator

  • Plastic Spoon

  • Pint Glass

  • Hydrometer

  • Syphon Tube & U-Bend

  • VinClasse 100g Steriliser

  • Handy Airlock

This basic equipment set is ideal for those on a budget, remember you can re-use plastic or glass bottles that have previously held carbonated drinks, if re-using glass beer bottles, remember you will need a capping tool and crown caps……if reusing plastic pop bottles, don't forget to keep the lids! Either way, remember to sterilise and clean the bottles prior to use.


Recommended For Lager, Light Ales And Fizzy Cider:

Balliihoo Complete Starter Set With Bottles - includes everything from the basic kit (except the syphon tube), 

but also includes:

  • Tap and Bottling Stick

  • Trial Jar

  • Jug

  • Small Funnel

  • 2x Packs of Carbonation Drops

  • 48 Plastic Bottles

  • Cleaning Cloth


Recommended For Ales And Darker Beers / Stouts 

Balliihoo Complete Starter Set with Co2 control cap - includes everything from the basic kit,
but also includes:

  • Balliihoo Pressure Barrel with LCD Thermometer Strip with Co2 Control cap 

  • Large Plastic Jug

  • Set of 3 Plastic Funnels


Choosing An Ingredient Kit

In the boom of the 70s and 80s, there were just a few different kits to choose from, the kits themselves have moved on a great deal since then, not only in quality but also in quantity, with a huge choice of different Cider, Ale, Bitter, Lager and Stout ingredient kits to pick from……..There are literally hundreds.

The 2 main types you will see are single tins or boxed.

A single tin will require additional fermentables in the form of either...….granulated sugar, brewing sugar, spraymalt (DME), or liquid malt extract (LME).

When choosing which additional fermentable to use take into consideration that when fermenting, sugar will produce alcohol (but no body or flavour). In contrast, spraymalt and malt extract will produce alcohol, body and flavour.

A boxed kit will contain all the required fermentables in the form of either 2 tins of malt extract or a pouch of malt extract in a large enough quantity that no additional fermentables are needed. As a result of this, single-ingredient kits are generally much cheaper than boxed kits.


Now you have chosen an Equipment Set And an Ingredient Kit you are ready to start Homebrewing - Each ingredient kit will come with step-by-step instructions that are specific to each kit and should always be followed, below is an outline guide of what you can expect.

Step 1: Cleaning Arguably the most important part of homebrewing: it’s important to clean and sterilise all equipment that will come into contact with the brew, as fermenting beer is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria which, if it takes hold, will ruin your finished beer. Follow the instructions on the steriliser packaging closely: make up the sterilising solution and pour it into your fermentation bucket. Place all other equipment inside and wash thoroughly, then leave to soak for a short time before draining the solution out of the bucket and carefully rinsing all equipment. (Rinsing is not necessary with Sodium Percarbonate, but the author recommends this as it can leave a slightly chalky residue)


Step 2: Preparing the Beer Kit Warm the tin by placing it in a pan of hot water to soften the contents. (With some beer kits the instructions are on the underside of the label, it is recommended to carefully peel off the label and keep this safe). Leave this for about 5-10 minutes and then pour the contents of the tin into your brewing bucket. Carefully rinse the tin out with boiling water and also pour some boiling water into the bucket. Add the required amount of brewing sugar or beer kit enhancer (if needed) Add approximately 4 more pints of boiling water and vigorously stir for 5 minutes to dissolve the contents and introduce oxygen, which will aid good fermentation. Top up with the required amount of hot and cold water to achieve a temperature of between 18 and 22 degrees celsius.

3. Checking the Gravity The Hydrometer is an important piece of equipment which enables the homebrewer to not only check the alcoholic content of their product but can also enable the homebrewer to track the progress of fermentation. Check the original gravity of the brew using the hydrometer by floating it in a sample and reading off the level. (Ignore the decimal point and read it as 990, 1000, 1010, 1020 etc.). Most beer kits will read approximately 1040 at this stage. Write the gravity level down and label it as your ‘original gravity or OG’ You will want this reading for later in the process! Check the temperature of your brew is between 18°C and 22°C then add the yeast and stir in. Fit the lid tightly to the bucket and insert the handy airlock into the whole in the lid (add a little water into the airlock)

4. Fermentation Fermentation usually only can take place between 18°C and 22°C so please try to ensure your brew stays around these temperatures throughout the entire fermentation process. After around 5 days any froth will have sunk to the bottom of the container and the gravity can be checked again. When you have two unchanged readings over two consecutive days the beer will be ready for bottling or barrelling. write down the final gravity (FG) Reading.

5. Checking the strength of the beer The strength of the beer is calculated using the original gravity reading and the final gravity reading, to make this simpler you can use our Easy Alcohol Calculator

6. Transferring to Bottles or a Pressure Barrel Transfer the beer to bottles using a syphon tube, being careful not to disturb any of the sediment. Or use a bottling tap and stick (if using the Complete Starter Kit with Bottles). Add around 80g of sugar to prime a barrel. If bottling, use 1 level teaspoon of sugar per 500ml bottle alternatively you can use carbonation drops. Keep your beer in the warm for 4 days, this will allow secondary fermentation (Priming) to take place which will introduce co2 pressure within the sealed barrel or bottles. Leave to stand for approximately 2 weeks for the beer to condition and clear before drinking. Please note stronger beers will benefit from being conditioned for longer.